Home » Kinmen » Outlying Islands » Beishan Old Western Style House (北山古洋樓) [Travel in Taiwan 171102-07: Escape from Formosa Part 2 "Shelled Shelter"]

November 08, 2017 Kinmen, Outlying Islands

Beishan Old Western Style House (北山古洋樓) [Travel in Taiwan 171102-07: Escape from Formosa Part 2 "Shelled Shelter"]

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style="text-align: justify;">The world is a cruel place especially here in Kinmen. In 1949,
China attempted to invade the island. To regain control of the “Golden Gate”, the forces of Mao Zedong made
an amphibious landing on the island. Communists vs Nationalists. Villages become battlegrounds. Guns were
fired, homes destroyed, lives lost. The scars left by the war are still here on some houses and the Benshan
Old Western Style House is one of them. Looks old on the outside but modern on the inside. This home will
be the command center of my travel adventures in Kinmen as I accomplish each of my missions as an escape
artist.

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style="text-align: center;">The Benshan Old Western Style House at night

style="text-align: justify;">

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Its location in Guningtou was the primary
concern of most travelers who want to stay here. Far away at six kilometers from the town of Jincheng, guests
must have eaten their dinner before going back to the hostel. The last bus that goes to Guningtou from Jincheng
Bus Station is at 7:15 pm. If guests fail to board this bus then they have to take a taxi or cycle up and
down the hills for 30 minutes. A painful task to do but good for one’s health.

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But despite the downsides of staying in
this hostel, it still ranks number 1 on TripAdvisor for Chinese-speaking visitors. In Agoda where I booked
my stay, it got a rating of almost 10 out of 10. A very high score for a seemingly bad place to stay, I tested
the staff’s hospitality on my first night. This is to prove or disprove the excellent evaluation in public
forums and hotel booking websites.

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A warm welcome. Patricia, a young Taiwanese
woman who works for the hostel as a freelance employee answered all of my inquiries about Kinmen. Whether
you speak Chinese or not, all of your itinerary needs will be answered by the hostel staff. They do this
everyday. Talking to the guests after they came back to the hostel and offering solutions to their travel
needs. With my four years of non-stop wandering in Taiwan, this is the only hostel where you will experience
this kind of nightly evaluation in your trip. No doubt that this is the best hostel in Kinmen and probably
in the whole of Taiwan.

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Tourist attraction and accommodation as
one. Through a government program to convert historic homes to guesthouses, the original owners of old buildings/houses
in lent their houses to the administrative council for decades and then subleases them to entrepreneurs who
want to run a hostel. In this way, tourists on the island are given a chance to stay in a traditional house
while at the same time savoring the good old times in Kinmen. The Benshan Old Western Style House is part
of this program and this is where the exciting part comes.

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History in a hostel. I did not let the
opportunity got away just to know the story of this house. The building is composed primarily of a typical
Fujian-style building with a quadrangle inside and beside it is a European-like annex. The Li brothers who
built the house for their mother made a good fortune in their coconut business in Manila. Like any successful
Kinmenese who went to Southeast Asia to find luck, they used the profits they earned to extend their home
sweet home by adding a two-story structure designed with Western architecture in 1928.

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Survivor. Marked by bullet holes, the
annex of the hostel is a relic that needs to be cherished as both Communists and Nationalists used the home
as a base for their troops. As part of the Taiwan Tour Bus Guningtou Route, visitors make a stop in front
of this house to take photos. But only guests staying on the hostel will have the chance to explore the fragile
annex of the house. Unknown to many, the inside of the building have statues of military men depicting what
happened during the war times of Kinmen. Rifles pointed on the windows while a soldier climbs the staircase
to patrol.

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Ready for action. As I reminisce the intense
exchange of fire that this house had gone through, the cool wind of autumn enters my bedroom. Whispering
in my ear, it reminded me that I have to wake up early. The first bus that will depart at Jincheng Bus Station
going to Guningtou is at 5:55 am so I have to be ready. Battle ready to engage in travel! Whenever I stepped
out of this shelled shelter.

************
Beishan Old Western Style House (北山古洋樓) /> target="_blank">

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2x" />
Chinese address and contact number:
北山古洋樓(共軍指揮所)
金門縣金寧鄉古寧村北山46-5號 />電話082-311486
rel="nofollow" target="_blank">[Agoda
link]

How to get here:
A. From Shanyi
Airport: Take a taxi and show the Chinese address to the driver. Estimated taxi fare is NTD 300. If there
is no car at the time of your arrival, then call this number of a taxi driver in Kinmen Island: 082-333081 />
B. From Jincheng Bus Station:
1. Board Bus 10 and get off the bus at Guningtou
Villagers Office stop.
Departure times of Bus 10 from Jincheng: 5:55/7:10/8:20/9:45/11:45/13:40/15:10/16:50/17:50/18:30 />*Bus 10 goes around Nanshan village before going back to Jincheng.

2. Board Bus
11 and get off the bus at Benshan bus stop
Departure times of Bus 11 from Jincheng:
5:55/6:45/9:10/10:40/12:15/14:10/16:20/17:10/18:10/19:15 />*Bus 11 cuts the travel time by making a U-turn at Benshan bus stop to return to Jincheng town immediately.
High school students also board this bus to get to their school faster.

*For both
buses, allow a waiting time of 15 to 20 minutes for the vehicle to arrive at Benshan from Jincheng. />
Nearest local convenience store: House no. 55 in front of the Benshan bus stop. You can
buy here chips, noodles and some beverages from a grandpa.

Nearest restaurant: Inside
the Peace Memorial Park is an oyster restaurant and it is open from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm.